When Pancakes Meet Castagnole
By the time Shrove Tuesday — or Martedì Grasso — arrives, I always breathe a quiet sigh of relief. It feels like the turning point of winter, when the promise of spring finally starts to appear on the horizon.
In England, Shrove Tuesday is all about pancakes, traditionally served simply with lemon and sugar. The custom dates back to the days when households would use up rich ingredients like butter, eggs and sugar before the fasting period of Lent began. Whether much fasting happens nowadays is another question, but in our family — despite having lived in Italy for many years — pancake night remains firmly on the calendar.
That said, our toppings have evolved slightly… Nutella, a staple in Italian homes, is now a firm favourite with the younger and less traditional generation.
Italy’s Sweet Carnival Treats
Here in Italy, the seasonal speciality is castagnole – delicious bite-sized doughnut balls, typically drizzled with honey or coated in sugar. Many bakeries also offer filled versions with pastry cream or chocolate.
Over the years I’ve enthusiastically sampled quite a few varieties in the name of research. The standout winner comes from a bar in Città di Castello – proof that sometimes the very best treats are the most local.
Carnival Season Across Italy
While the UK keeps things relatively low-key, Italy fully embraces carnival season. Festivities take place throughout the country, ranging from elegant historic events to lively, family-friendly street celebrations.
The most famous is undoubtedly the Carnival of Venice, renowned worldwide for its exquisite masks and timeless atmosphere.
For something with a more contemporary and artistic feel, the Viareggio Carnival is spectacular in a completely different way. Each year features a new theme brought to life through enormous papier-mâché floats, many of which include sharp satirical commentary on politics and current affairs.
We visited Viareggio several years ago and were absolutely blown away by the scale and creativity on display. The craftsmanship and detail are phenomenal. Most visitors dress up, which creates a wonderfully immersive party atmosphere. Tickets can be booked online — it makes for a long (and often confetti-filled!) day, but it is well worth the trip.
The Charm of Local Celebrations
On a more local level — much like the Palios — small-town events can be enormous fun. The carnival in Anghiari is a perfect example. Floats created by local businesses and community groups wind their way through the town, often with a humorous political twist. One year I vividly remember a Silvio Berlusconi “Bunga Bunga” themed float, among others.
My all-time favourite, however, was a wonderfully chaotic 101 Dalmatians–themed group that filled the piazza with an abundance of spotted dog costumes, accompanied by one very committed Cruella de Vil in a full fur coat — quite a sight!
There is also a much-loved tractor-pulled train that loops around the town, giving children in costume the chance to ride along while enthusiastically spraying silly string and throwing handfuls of confetti.
Top tip: it’s best not to wear anything too precious or difficult to clean — carnival in Italy is gloriously messy!
From pancakes in the kitchen to confetti in the streets, this time of year is one of the many reasons we love life in Italy. If you’re considering making the move or planning a visit, Carnival season offers a wonderful glimpse into the country’s community spirit and traditions.
