Rediscovering the Rhythm of the Seasons
When I first moved to Italy, I had honestly lost touch with the rhythm of seasonal eating. I remember searching for broccoli in the supermarket one summer and my mother-in-law looking puzzled and saying: “You won’t find it—it’s not in season.”
In London, every vegetable was available year-round—though often flavourless. Over time, as I adapted to Italy’s slower, more intentional way of life, I began to appreciate the beauty of eating with the seasons.
And autumn, without question, is my favourite. Pumpkins and squash piled high at the market, the earthy scent of wild mushrooms, the intoxicating aroma of truffles. The first chestnuts roasting, the first olives pressed into spicy, vivid green oil. That comforting moment when you finally pull on a warm jumper after a long summer.
A Season of Festivals and Flavours
Then come the food festivals—le sagre—Italy’s heartwarming celebrations of the harvest. Each town proudly honours its local delicacy: from truffles to chestnuts, from fried bread to chocolate. It’s the Italian version of a harvest festival, only bigger, louder, and more delicious.
Long communal tables, live music, laughter, dancing, and stalls brimming with local produce—it’s impossible not to get swept up in the joy of it all. If you’re visiting between September and November, check the festival dates (they change each year so check our fb page for up to date details) and plan to experience a few. Here are some of my favourites close to home.
September – Sagra della Polenta, Monterchi (third weekend)
One of the most popular sagras in the area, Monterchi’s Polenta Festival grows bigger each year thanks to local volunteers. The main event takes place below the medieval town, with tented seating, BBQ areas, and a funfair, live music and dancing.
Order at the counter, take your ticket to the tables, and volunteers will bring steaming plates straight to you. The star dish is, of course, polenta—served with ragù or a creamy mushroom sauce. Don’t miss the Tuscan sausages or my personal favourite: crispy fried porcini mushrooms.
Up in the old town, there’s live music and more seating – a lovely atmosphere if you are willing to brave the steps to the top. Wherever you go it’s a true community celebration.
Late September / Early October – Sagra della Ciacciafritta, Fighille
Only in Italy would you find a festival dedicated entirely to fried bread. And honestly, who can resist? Golden, crisp, and utterly addictive—this is comfort food at its best.
October – Festa d’Autunno, Monte Santa Maria Tiberina
This lesser-known Umbrian hilltop town hosts a charming celebration of all things autumn: local produce, chestnuts, and handmade delicacies. The setting alone—stone streets framed by stunning country views—is worth the visit.
October – Festa della Castagna e del Marrone DOP, Caprese Michelangelo
If you want a truly Autumnal experience, the drive to Caprese Michelangelo alone provides you with breathtaking views. The festival celebrates the chestnut harvest with roasted chestnuts, grilled sausages, and fresh Tuscan bread.
A circular route winds around the medieval centre, lined with stalls selling honey, olive oil, and artisan goods—a perfect blend of flavour and charm.
Mid–Late October – Altrocioccolato, Città di Castello
When you’re ready for something sweet, this fair-trade chocolate festival is heaven. Need a break from all the savoury delights? Step into chocolate heaven. Altrocioccolato is a festival devoted to fair-trade chocolate—good for the planet and even better for your mood.
31 October – 2 November – Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Bianco, Città di Castello
Ah, truffles. You either love them or you don’t—but if you do, this is your moment. The white truffle fair fills the town with that unmistakable aroma, offering everything from truffle oil to pasta and cheese infused with its earthy magic. Heaven.
31 October – 2 November – I Centogusti dell’Appennino, Anghiari
Yes, I may be biased—this is my local favourite—but I Centogusti (“The Hundred Flavours of the Apennines”) truly lives up to its name. The medieval streets of Anghiari come alive with pop-up shops and producers offering cured meats, cheeses, honey, and more.
There are food tents serving hearty lunches, and it’s almost impossible to leave empty-handed—or hungry.
Mid-November – Festa di San Martino e dei Bringoli, Anghiari
This festival celebrates Anghiari’s patron saint and its signature pasta, bringoli. Freshly rolled and served with rich sauces, it’s paired perfectly with grilled sausages and local wine. You can dine in the food tents or grab a takeaway—it’s the perfect, comforting finale to the season.
Why Autumn in Tuscany and Umbria Is Unforgettable
Autumn here isn’t just a time of year—it’s a celebration of life’s simple pleasures. The land gives its best, and the people gather to honour it: eating, laughing, and sharing together.
If you visit in autumn, you’ll not only taste Tuscany and Umbria—you’ll feel them. And once you do, you’ll understand why it’s impossible not to fall in love with this magical season.
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